MUA LAU, KESANIH KEEP CENTURY-OLD CHINESE NEW YEAR TRADITIONS ALIVE IN KELANTAN

KOTA BHARU, Feb 9 (Bernama) -- Each year as Chinese New Year approaches, a small factory beside Gok Kapur Market in Kampung Cina here springs into activity, producing traditional delicacies that have been handed down for more than a century, even as their names become increasingly unfamiliar to the younger generation.

From the modest workspace, mua lau kuih and kesanih biscuits (also known as sanih) are produced using time-honoured recipes. What sets the operation apart is that the entire production process is carried out by Malay workers, reflecting a spirit of harmony and cultural cooperation.

One of the experienced workers, Nur Mawardah Mohd Yusof, 25, said that unlike kuih bakul, which is synonymous with Chinese New Year celebrations, mua lau and kesanih remain niche delicacies known mainly among loyal customers and are rarely available on the open market.

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“Mua lau is also known locally as kuih lengo or bijan in the Kelantan dialect, and it is among the most produced items here because of its unique taste. However, not many people realise that it is actually a traditional delicacy of the Kelantan Chinese community,” she told Bernama recently.

Nur Mawardah, who has worked part-time at the factory since her teenage years, said production is capped at about 2,000 packages despite increased demand ahead of the festive season to ensure consistent quality.

She is joined by two other Malay workers, Auri Aslin Aslinda Mohd Rosli, 21, and Nur Alisya Nabila Othman, 19, who are also involved in the preparation process.

“We work elsewhere and are called in on a part-time basis about three months before Chinese New Year, which is the busiest period, from 8 am to 5 pm. We enjoy working here because the relationship is close, like a family, and the atmosphere is relaxed,” said Auri Aslin.

Factory owner Lee Su Wei, 46, said the business was founded by his late uncle, Lee Ghee Bee, and is now operated by the third generation. He said production is carried out only for the Chinese New Year period using traditional methods to preserve authenticity and maintain the delicacies’ exclusivity.

Lee explained that mua lau is made from glutinous rice, white yam sourced from Thailand, rice extract, sesame seeds and oil, and involves a lengthy and meticulous preparation process.

“The process begins with kneading the dough, which is then sun-dried until fully dehydrated, cut into thin square pieces, fried, coated with sugar syrup and finally rolled in roasted sesame seeds,” he said.

According to him, the drying process depends heavily on weather conditions, taking about one and a half days under hot sunshine or up to three days in humid conditions to ensure the inside is completely dry.

“The sugar-coating stage is the most challenging, as the sugar has to be cooked for almost an hour until it thickens and must be applied quickly before it hardens,” he added.

Kesanih biscuits, meanwhile, are square-shaped egg biscuits made from starch, fresh coconut milk and egg yolks.

Although the factory operates seasonally, Lee said demand comes not only from Kelantan but also from other states, including Johor, as well as from Singapore and Brunei.

“As long as there is a generation willing to continue making these delicacies, we will preserve this heritage. It is even more meaningful when these foods are produced together with the local community in a harmonious setting,” he said, adding that halal-certified mua lau and kesanih are sold at RM24 per 500 grams.

Lee said the three traditional delicacies produced at the factory, including kuih bakul, are not merely festive treats but also symbols of unity and living proof that nearly forgotten cultural heritage can continue to thrive in Kelantan’s multiracial society.

-- BERNAMA