LETTER FROM CHINA: SAVOURING ASEAN THROUGH PHO AND COCONUT ROLLS IN NANNING

By Guo Yifan

NANNING, April 22 (Bernama-Xinhua) -- Not long ago, while scrolling through Xiaohongshu, a popular Chinese lifestyle app also known as rednote, I came across a post asking, "Which city in China has the best food?"

Among thousands of replies, one simple comment stood out, garnering more than 2,400 likes: "Nanning, a place where you don't have to rush to see landmarks. Just eat. Slowly."

I couldn't agree more. I gave it a thumbs-up and added my own reply: "If you come to Nanning, don't just try the local rice noodles. The Southeast Asian food here is unbelievably authentic!"

As the capital of south China's Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, a key gateway to ASEAN, Nanning isn't just influenced by Southeast Asia; it's infused with it. Thanks to growing connectivity, shared climate, and close cultural ties, Southeast Asian flavours have become an inseparable part of daily life here.

At an international event, Nanning mayor Hou Gang once said, "With direct flights connecting us to all 10 ASEAN countries, you can have Laoyou rice noodles in Nanning for breakfast, sip coffee in Hanoi by noon, and enjoy durian in Kuala Lumpur by afternoon."

It might sound like a slogan, but in Nanning, it feels more like a way of life. You'll find Thai papaya salad, Indonesian coconut rolls, and Vietnamese pho served alongside local rice noodles at street stalls and tucked-away eateries.

And if you're a durian fan, you are in luck. China remains the world's largest importer and biggest consumer of durians. According to customs data, the country imported a record 1.56 million tonnes of fresh durians last year, valued at US$6.99 billion.

Most of the fresh durians in the Chinese market come from Thailand and Vietnam, though imports from Malaysia and the Philippines are growing. Durian lovers like me can now enjoy fresh fruit year-round.

The city's humid subtropical climate closely mirrors that of Southeast Asian countries. Even the Zhuang language, spoken by one of the region's ethnic groups, carries traces of Thai. But what truly brings these flavours to life are the people who cook, savour and share them.

A colleague who has lived in Nanning for over 20 years told me that the turning point was in 2004, when the city hosted the first China-ASEAN Expo. "That's when the wave of Southeast Asian restaurants began," he said. "Since then, they've only multiplied."

Today, Nanning is affectionately known as the "city of rice noodles". While locals remain loyal to famous Laoyou and Luosi noodle dishes, Vietnamese chicken pho has become just as beloved.

There are two pho shops near my office, small and unpretentious. But their homemade flavours and wallet-friendly prices draw regulars from nearby offices every day. It's also my go-to meal when I want something light and delicious after work.

One Spring Festival, I was invited to dinner by Hoang Thi Hue, a Vietnamese translator who has lived in Nanning for many years. She introduced me to her Chinese husband and their two children. Her apartment was bright with fresh flowers, a Vietnamese holiday tradition, and the table was filled with Vietnamese fried spring rolls she had made herself.

"Life in Nanning is just as cozy and fulfilling as in Hanoi," she told me. "I can find almost every ingredient I need for Vietnamese dishes. And if I don't feel like cooking, it's easy to find Vietnamese-run restaurants that taste just like home."

Over the past seven years, I've met many people who have brought the tastes of Southeast Asia to Nanning. Some are Chinese food lovers who turned their passion into a profession. Others are Southeast Asian friends who moved here with their families or international students who stayed after graduation to start their own businesses.

One of them is Wei Chaoxia, a descendant of Indonesian Chinese. I first discovered her snack shop through social media, where users praised her for healthy ingredients and nostalgic flavours.

When I visited, I was greeted by shelves of Indonesian treats like nine-layer cakes, sticky rice dumplings, sago pudding, coconut rolls, and her signature turtle-shaped cakes, which are a symbol of health and longevity, warm from the oven.

"I learned to bake from my mother," Wei told me. She named the shop after her mother's surname. What started as a neighbourhood bakery has grown steadily, earning a loyal following that now includes many Indonesian students longing for a taste of home.

Another unforgettable individual is Tonny Tong, a Malaysian sommelier, who opened a restaurant in downtown Nanning. There, he serves not only Malaysian specialties, but also curates a wine list featuring bottles from across Southeast Asia.

Tong told me that the Chinese market is vast and dynamic, and that growing economic ties between China and Malaysia have made doing business much easier and more promising. More and more of his friends back home are starting to explore opportunities in China.

Indeed, the numbers tell a story, too. In the first quarter of this year, ASEAN remained China's largest trading partner, with total trade reaching 1.71 trillion yuan (about US$237 billion), up 7.1 per cent from a year earlier and accounting for 16.6 per cent of China's overall trade value.

Tourism between China and Southeast Asia is also flourishing. For example, in the first 10 months of 2024, approximately 1.08 million Malaysian tourists travelled to China.

Through every steaming bowl, sizzling wok, and sweet dessert, Nanning's connection with Southeast Asia is served not just in taste, but in friendship.

So if you ever find yourself in southern China, come to Nanning with an open heart and an empty stomach. Start with the rice noodles, sure. But keep going! Tucked into the city's alleys and night markets is an entire region waiting to be discovered, one bite at a time.  

-- BERNAMA-XINHUA