JALA MAS: KELANTAN’S ROYAL DESSERT THAT STANDS THE TEST OF TIME

KOTA BHARU, March 20 (Bernama) -- The delicate golden strands of ‘Jala Mas’ (Kelantanese dessert made of duck egg yolks and sugar, with lace-like appearance) are more than just a sweet treat; they are a symbol of heritage, woven with history and the richness of tradition.

Kelantan’s Jala Mas, once exclusively served in palaces and aristocratic households, can now be enjoyed by everyone, yet its exclusivity remains intact. Much like gold, its brilliance never fades.

Made from finely stretched egg yolks bathed in thick sugar syrup, Jala Mas is no ordinary delicacy. It is a testament to patience, precision, and the art of traditional culinary craftsmanship passed down through generations.

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For Nik Azina Nik Abdullah, 59, a traditional dessert maker who has upheld her family’s legacy for over two decades, Jala Mas is more than just food, it embodies Kelantan’s heritage.

“This dessert is not just sweet on the tongue, it carries a history. In the past, only Sultans and the nobility could enjoy it. Today, anyone can buy Jala Mas, but it is still in a class of its own,” she told Bernama recently.

Jala Mas can be found in other states such as Terengganu and Pahang, but Kelantan’s recipe and preparation techniques are unique.

“Although they may look the same, the taste is different. Kelantan’s Jala Mas has a secret touch, passed down through generations. In my shop, it is our best-selling signature product,” she said.

The demand for Jala Mas surges dramatically during Ramadan. Every day, Nik Azina and her team use around 5,000 eggs to produce Jala Mas and other traditional delicacies like Bunga Tanjung, Tahi Itik, Pauh Dilayang, and Mas Jemput.

“By noon, customers are already lining up in front of the shop. Within a few hours, everything is sold out,” she said, adding that a box of Jala Mas is priced between RM5 and RM12, depending on the quantity.

Nik Azina said she learned to make Jala Mas from a young age from her late grandmother, Nik Fatimah Nik Him.

“Her home was near the palace, and the Sultan at the time often ordered this delicacy for royal feasts. My grandmother used to say that in the past, only the wealthy could afford it,” Nik Azina recalled.

After her grandmother’s passing, her mother, Nik Meriam Nik Omar, continued the tradition before passing it on to Nik Azina and her two brothers in 2016.

Nik Azina said her family’s Jala Mas is no ordinary dessert. It had been ordered by Malaysia Airlines (MAS) and was also served at the dining table of the Pahang royal family during a wedding last year.

“That was my greatest achievement as a traditional dessert maker. It was not just a business opportunity, but an honour and recognition of our family’s heritage,” she said.

Nik Azina said she believes that Jala Mas is more than just food, it is a cultural treasure that must be preserved.

“I want the younger generation to learn and continue this craft. That’s why I have started teaching my nieces and nephews, including one who holds a culinary degree. We cannot let this heritage disappear,” she said.

-- BERNAMA